Hidden beneath Tokyo's streets lie ancient burial mounds (or “kofun”), silent reminders of a far older past waiting to be uncovered.]
Intro
In today’s JRPass blog post, we’re going back in time to reflect on the history beneath Tokyo’s modern day streets. Japan is a country with more than two thousand years of recorded history and its capital is no exception. Long before it became the city we know today, Tokyo (then called Edo) was just a small fishing village, likely established sometime in the 12th or 13th century. Tokugawa Ieyasu, a powerful daimyo (or feudal lord) who later would become shogun, was later granted control of the Kanto region and began construction of Edo Castle in 1590. This marked a turning point and, when the Tokugawa Shogunate was established a little over a decade later, Edo had become the de facto capital. The emperor, who actually remained in Kyoto, then moved to Edo after the Meiji Restoration in 1868, which was renamed Tokyo (literally “Eastern Capital”), marking the city’s transformation into Japan’s modern seat of power. Tokyo’s story, however, stretches back even further and hidden beneath its streets lie ancient burial mounds (or “kofun”), silent reminders of a far older past waiting to be uncovered.
What is a Kofun?
The word “kofun” comes from Sino-Japanese vocabulary—a subset of Japanese derived from Chinese—and refers to megalithic burial mounds or tombs constructed between the 3rd and 7th centuries AD. The word also is the origin of the name for the Kofun period (c. 300-538 AD), the earliest period of recorded history in Japan. Across Japan, more than 160,000 kofun have been identified and it’s believed that many more still remain undiscovered. While some kofun are little more than simple earthen mounds, others are more complex, with round, square, octagonal, and even distinctive keyhole-shapes, like Daisenryo Kofun in Osaka. Believed to be the final resting place of Emperor Nintoku, this kofun actually is one of the three largest tombs in the world, standing right there alongside the mausoleum of the first emperor of China and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt.
Kofun, especially those with more sophisticated designs, often contain stone burial chambers with painted plaster walls and offerings such as weapons, armor, bronze mirrors, jewelry, and pottery. Inside many kofun you can also find “haniwa,” terracotta clay figures. If you’ve played the popular video game “Animal Crossing,” the collectible furniture items known as “gyroids,” the in-game character Lloid, and a rabbit villager named Coco (her Japanese name, Yayoi, being a reference to the Yayoi period, which preceded the Kofun period) were inspired by these real-world haniwa figures.
Kofun weren’t just tombs, however. They were statements of power. Building these massive earthworks likely required thousands of laborers, underscoring the rise of a centralized governing state in ancient Japan. What’s more, the items found inside kofun also reveal Japan’s historical trade connections to mainland Asia, particularly China and Korea.
And, while the Kansai region boasts the largest and most famous kofun in Japan, Tokyo has its fair share too—with dozens hidden away in parks, shrines, and even residential neighborhoods, just waiting to be discovered by curious visitors.
Sarugaku Shrine
Daikanyama, sometimes called the “Beverly Hills of Shibuya,” is known for its upscale, fashion district with boutique shopping, fine dining, art galleries, and luxury residences. However, sitting on a hill surrounded by the modern Hillside Terrace complex, sits a tiny, almost hidden Taisho-era shrine. 
Easy to miss if you’re not looking for it, the shrine itself sits atop one of Tokyo’s kofun—a circular burial mound dating back to the late Kofun period. Not much is known about the burial mound itself, which actually has never been excavated partly out of respect for its sacred status and because doing might harm whatever may still lie within. So, the internal structure and whether there’s a burial chamber or historical artifacts remains unknown. What is known is that, in the early 20th century, the area was part of the Asakura family estate—prominent landowners in Shibuya. They eventually built the small shrine, which became known as Sarugaku Shrine and, in turn, gave its name to the surrounding Sarugakucho district.
Sarugaku Shrine is open 24 hours a day and is just a 5-minute walk from Daikanyama Station or 10 minutes from Ebisu Station on the JR Yamanote Line.
Tamagawadai Park
Located along the banks of the Tama River, which separates Tokyo from Kanagawa Prefecture, Tamagawadai Park is actually home to several kofun. Perhaps the most impressive of these being the Kamenokoyama Kofun, a keyhole-shaped mound that’s approximately 107 meters long. 
Built in the mid-Kofun period, it’s the largest kofun in the Tama River basin and, although well-preserved, has never been excavated. While not as grand in scale, a few of the park’s smaller mounds have been excavated, revealing historical artifacts like straight swords, arrowheads, jewelry, pottery, and haniwa. What makes the park stand out, however, is a local archeological museum known as Tamagawadai Park Kofun Exhibition Hall (pictured above).
Housed inside a single room, there’s multiple displays (in Japanese) explaining the history of kofun. There’s also a full-size replica of a burial chamber you can enter, which contains artifacts from the Kofun period, including those found at Tamagawadai Park.
Tamagawadai Park Kofun Exhibition Hall is free of charge and open daily from 9AM to 4:30PM. Just a 5-minute walk from Tamagawa Station, you can also get there in about 10 minutes from Kamata Station on the JR Keihin-Tohoku Line.
Musashi Fuchu Kumano Shrine
Located in Fuchu City, just behind Kumano Shrine, the Musashi Fuchu Kumano Shrine Kofun is arguably the most visually striking in Tokyo. For many years it was thought to be nothing more than a natural hill, until a construction project in the 1990s revealed it to be a man-made. Further investigation in 1994, using ground penetrating radar, detected a large stone structure inside, and the rediscover of an 1884 journal indicated there likely was a burial chamber in the mound, which contained two human skeletons and artifacts resembling “rusty nails.” In 2003, a full archaeological excavation confirmed the mound to be a rare, three-tier kofun with a round dome and square base called a “joenkahofun.” 
Only a handful of these kofun exist in all of Japan. In 2005, it was designated a National Historic Site and Fuchu City has worked to restore the kofun to what is believed to have been its original appearance. A small museum called the Musashi Fuchu Kumano Shrine Kofun Exhibition Hall was also opened to explain the site’s history.
The museum is free of charge and just an 8-minute walk from Saifu Station on the JR Nambu Line. It’s open Tuesday through Sunday from 9AM to 5:00PM during the summer and from 10AM to 4:00PM during the winter.
Shiba Maruyama Kofun
In the shadow of the iconic Tokyo Tower—standing 13 meters taller than the Eiffel Tower in Paris—Prince Shiba Park is home to a five-star hotel, a centuries-old Buddhist temple, and, wouldn’t you know it, another of Tokyo’s ancient kofun. 
Known as the Shiba Maruyama Kofun, it’s actually the largest burial mound in the city—measuring some 110 meters in length. Likely constructed sometime in the 5th century, little else is known about this keyhole-shaped kofun. However, investigations back to the 19th century did reveal that its burial chamber was empty, suggesting the kofun may have been looted. In 1979, the Shiba Maruyama Kofun was designated an Important Historical Property of Tokyo and today visitors can stroll across this ancient tomb, all while surrounded by Tokyo’s modern cityscape.
Prince Shiba Park is open 24 hours a day and is literally steps away from Shibakoen Station, Akanebashi Station, and Daimon Station. If using the JR Yamanote Line, it’s roughly a 16-minute walk from Hamamatsucho Station.
Bonus Recommendations
For more on visiting Tokyo’s history, its past, present, and future, check out the further reading below:
- For more on Japan's history, check out our blog post, the Top 10 Destinations in Japan for History Lovers.
- As you can tell from the post above, the best way to get around these historic locations in Tokyo is by train and if you're planning to go beyond the city to destinations such as Kyoto then a Japan Rail Pass is an essential purchase for train hopping.
- If you’re exploring a huge city like Tokyo during your first time in Japan, it could feel a little daunting. That’s why we’ve put together our Top Ten Tips for First Time Visitors in Japan.
- Tokyo makes a great base for day trips to other destinations in Japan using the Japan Rail Pass thanks to its incredible transport connections. Find out more in our guide to The Best Day Trips from Tokyo.
- For more on IC cards, check out our Top 30 Tips for Using Japan’s Metros for advice and guidance on using the city’s subway network.
- Tokyo is BIG!! As such, it’s a smart idea to invest in PocketWifi to stay connected and avoid any unwanted data charges if you happen to need directions or language advice while you’re on the move.
- Need a helping hand on arrival? Our dedicated Meet and Greet Service is like having a personal assistant for your holiday who happens to be an expert on Japan. We’ll take care of you from the moment you arrive in Japan.
