Quick Answer: The Futabanosato Walking Trail is a roughly 10 km route past 16 historic shrines and temples around the base of Mt Futabayama in Hiroshima — a peaceful walk into the city's life before the 1945 atomic bombing. Highlights include the 1648 Hiroshima Toshogu Shrine (with its original bomb-surviving red gate), tunnels of vermillion Inari torii, and the hilltop Mt Futaba Peace Pagoda with the best panoramic view in the city. It starts right at Hiroshima Station's north exit, takes a half-day at a relaxed pace (or about two hours for a shorter circuit of the main sights), and parts can be skipped using the Hiroshima City bus — free with your JR Pass.
Most visitors know Hiroshima for a single, terrible date: 6 August 1945. A trip here rightly centres on the A-Bomb Dome, the Peace Memorial Park and Museum, and the city's miraculous recovery. But climb a little way up the green slopes of Mt Futabayama, just behind the station, and a different Hiroshima reveals itself — one of ancient shrines guarded by stone foxes, vermillion torii tunnels winding up through the forest, centuries-old temples with stories of samurai and sea gods, and a hilltop pagoda looking out over the whole rebuilt city.
This is the Futabanosato Walking Trail: a quiet, moving walk through the Hiroshima that existed for hundreds of years before the bomb, and that still endures on the mountainside today.
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Visiting the Futabanosato Walking Trail
For hundreds of years before 1945, Hiroshima was a thriving castle town like many others established at the start of the Edo period (1603–1868). Its lords, samurai, merchants and townspeople built temples and shrines along the foot of Mt Futabayama — for the veneration of ancestors, for protection, and for good fortune.
Many of these sites were damaged or destroyed by the atomic bomb, but a remarkable number survived (the mountainside offered some shelter) or have since been faithfully reconstructed. Walking the trail that links them is a rare chance to glimpse the old Hiroshima — and to find some genuine peace and nature just minutes from the bustle of the Shinkansen station. It's one of the city's best-kept secrets, and a wonderful "off the beaten path" half-day for anyone who's already seen the Peace Park.
Stops along the Futabanosato Walking Trail
There are 16 official stops on the full trail, but here are the ones not to miss — each with a quick "why go" so you can pick your favourites.
Hiroshima Toshogu Shrine
Why go: The grandest and most accessible stop, right by the station. Built in 1648 and dedicated to the great shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, its striking original red gate famously survived the atomic fire (protected by its tiled roof) — look up under the eaves for the intricate carvings of the ho-o, the mythical phoenix.
Best for: History and architecture lovers; an easy visit even if you only have an hour before a train.
Kinko Inari Shrine & the torii tunnels
Why go: Tucked behind the Toshogu main hall, this Inari shrine begins the climb up the mountain through tunnels of vermillion torii gates — a smaller, quieter echo of Kyoto's famous Fushimi Inari, with barely another soul around.
Best for: Photographers and anyone who loves that classic torii-tunnel shot without the crowds.
Mount Futaba Peace Pagoda
Why go: About a 20-minute climb up through the torii and forest brings you to this hilltop pagoda — and the single best panoramic view over the whole of Hiroshima (you may have spotted it from the Shinkansen on your way in). A serene, leafy reward and a moving spot for quiet reflection.
Best for: Views, a nature break, and a sense of perspective over the rebuilt city.
Onaga Tenmangu Shrine
Why go: One of the oldest sites on the mountain — legend traces worship here to the year 901. Its Meiji-era buildings all survived the bombing. It's dedicated to Tenjin, the deity of learning, so look for the large bull statue at the entrance (his symbol) — students rub it for exam luck.
Best for: History buffs and anyone wishing for a little academic good fortune.
Kokuzen-ji Temple
Why go: The family temple of Hiroshima's ruling Asano clan, its main hall dating to 1671 and designated an Important Cultural Property. Its roof was blown off by the bomb but has been carefully restored — a tangible link to the lords who governed the old castle town.
Best for: Those interested in the samurai families who shaped Hiroshima.
Ikari ("Anchor") Shrine
Why go: A small roadside shrine with an outsized story. Dedicated to the sea gods, it has stood here since before Hiroshima Castle was built in 1589. According to legend, the feudal lord Masanori Fukushima buried eight swords here as a sacrifice to the water gods to stop the city flooding — a substitute for the human sacrifice that wasn't unheard of at the time. It's the only historic remnant of Fukushima's rule.
Best for: Lovers of folklore and offbeat local legends.
The leaning hall & the surviving ginkgo
Why go: One of the trail's most quietly powerful stops: a Buddhist temple, first built in 1533, whose main hall still leans slightly from the force of the atomic blast. By the gate stands a 350-year-old ginkgo tree that survived the bombing and lives on — a living symbol of Hiroshima's endurance.
Best for: A moment of reflection on the city's resilience.
Getting to the Futabanosato Walking Trail
Starting the Futabanosato trail is easy, right from Hiroshima Station. First, pick up a free walking map from the tourist information centre in the station — they're packed with useful detail and well worth grabbing before you set off.
Then head to the north exit of Hiroshima Station and walk north for about three blocks to Hikarigaoka Yamane Park, which has a public washroom and makes a convenient unofficial start. From here you can walk the loop clockwise or counter-clockwise — we suggest clockwise, as it gives you the option to finish at JR Yaga Station rather than walking all the way back, reducing the total distance.
Prefer not to walk the whole thing? Part of the route can be covered using the Hiroshima City bus and the Meipuru-pu sightseeing loop bus, both free with your Japan Rail Pass — handy for skipping the less scenic stretches or resting tired legs. And since the trail passes near Hiroshima Castle, it makes an easy add-on visit.
If you plan to climb Mt Futabayama to the Peace Pagoda, wear good shoes — the forest trails can be slippery — or take the paved roads that wind up the mountain instead.Tips for hiking the Futabanosato trail
- Reserve about half a day for the entire trail, this way you can take your time and enjoy the experience without having to hurry.
- The trail is close to Hiroshima Castle, which can be an easy add-on visit.
- Part of the trail can also be explored using the Hiroshima City bus, which is included for free with your JR Pass.
Step Back Into Old Hiroshima
The Futabanosato Walking Trail is one of Hiroshima's quiet treasures — a chance to swap the crowds of the Peace Park for a peaceful morning among ancient shrines, forest torii, and a hilltop pagoda with the finest view in the city. It's a gentle, moving reminder that Hiroshima's story didn't begin in 1945, but stretches back centuries, much of it still standing on the green slopes of Mt Futabayama.
Best of all, it starts right at the station and costs nothing to walk. So next time you're in Hiroshima with a Japan Rail Pass and a free morning, pick up a map, head for the north exit, and step back into the old city. Have a wonderful walk!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Is the trail covered by the Japan Rail Pass?
The trail itself is free to walk. Both Hiroshima Station (the start) and JR Yaga Station (a good finish point) are covered by the JR Pass, and parts of the route can be covered using the Hiroshima City bus and the Meipuru-pu sightseeing loop bus — both free with your pass.
2. Is the walk difficult?
Most of the trail is gentle and on city streets, suitable for all fitness levels. The one steeper section is the climb up Mt Futabayama to the Peace Pagoda (about 20 minutes through forest). Wear grippy shoes for that part, as the trails can be slippery, or take the paved roads up instead.
3. What's the best part of the trail?
For many visitors it's the Mt Futaba Peace Pagoda — both for the 20-minute walk up through tunnels of vermillion torii and for the panoramic view over Hiroshima at the top, the best in the city. The 1648 Hiroshima Toshogu Shrine, with its bomb-surviving original red gate, is another highlight right by the station.
4. When is the best time to walk it?
Morning is ideal: it's cooler for the climb, the shrine buildings open from around 9:00, and it leaves your afternoon free for Hiroshima Castle or the Peace Park. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons; summer can be hot and humid for the uphill stretch.
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