The Nakasendo was one of the five great highways of Edo-period Japan, connecting Tokyo (then Edo) and Kyoto through the central mountains. Today, the most popular section to walk is the beautifully preserved 8 km trail between the post towns of Magome and Tsumago in the Kiso Valley, an easy, mostly downhill 2–3-hour hike through cedar forests, past waterfalls and old stone paths, linking two perfectly restored Edo-era villages. It's reachable from Nagoya in around 1h15 by JR train (covered by the Japan Rail Pass), and the best times to walk it are spring (April–May) and autumn (October–November).
Grab your walking boots (and your JR Pass) and get ready to follow in the footsteps of ancient Edo travellers on one of Japan's most beautiful and rewarding journeys. Walking the Nakasendo trail is a chance to step back in time — to a Japan of post towns, mountain passes, and cobbled paths worn smooth by centuries of lords, merchants, pilgrims and samurai.
While the full historic route once ran all the way from Tokyo to Kyoto, when people talk about "walking the Nakasendo" today, they usually mean the gorgeously preserved sections in Gifu Prefecture and Nagano Prefecture's Kiso Valley — home to charming old post towns like Magome, Tsumago and Narai.
A Brief History of the Nakasendo
The Nakasendo was created during the Edo period as one of five official routes for Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu to control the country. It was travelled by lords, merchants, pilgrims, monks, samurai and more, including the famous haiku master Matsuo Basho. The five routes, including the Nakasendo, were restored from pre-existing highways and pathways that dated back more than a thousand years by edicts introduced by the Shogun in 1602. As it took several days to complete the 332-mile Nakasendo trail, the route included several Juku (rest stations) post towns for travellers to stay overnight. Originally, there were a total of 69 of these stations along the route.
While modern roads and railways eventually reduced the political importance of the Nakasendo, the trail exists today as a scenic journey into Japan’s feudal past. Interestingly, the country’s transition from feudal state to the present day is recounted in a famous novel set along the Nakasendo Trail called ‘Before the Dawn’ by Shimazaki Toson. For more on Japanese literature, read our guide to the country’s Famous Writers.
Many of the old post towns along the route have remained unchanged for hundreds of years and offer visitors a genuine chance to step back in time. The trail is also known for winding gently through Japan’s beautiful forested and mountainous landscape, with quaint wooden villages, towns, welcoming inns, and warming hot springs along the way.
As we mentioned above, the 332-mile trail stretches from Edo (modern-day Tokyo) to Kyoto. However, the best-known and most popular historic section is in the Kiso Valley between Tsumago and Magome. This 7.7km trail can be travelled on foot and is famously beautiful thanks to its waterfalls, forests, mountain scenery, quaint bridges, and beautifully preserved Japanese towns. You can reach this historic area with your Japan Rail Pass as a day trip from Kyoto or Nagoya. We will have more on how to get there below.
Of course, there are much longer sections of the Nakasendo for the more adventurous. You can start at the Sanjo-Ohashi bridge in Kyoto - one of the historic beginning points of the full trail - through Hikone, on the shores of Lake Biwa, Sekigahara, Hosokute, and Ena before reaching Magome and Tsumago, and continuing onto Kiso-Fukushima, the Kaida Plateau, Narai, and Karuizawa, before finally crossing the Nihonbashi Bridge (the official end of the old highway) and reaching Tokyo. Phew! You’ll definitely need a good long soak in an onsen after all that walking!
Highlights from the Nakasendo Trail
There are lots of famous highlights along the Nakasendo Trail, including both the full 332-mile route and the shorter historic section through the Kiso Valley. Here are our recommendations:
Okute and the giant cedar tree
Between Hosokute and Ena lies the post town of Okute, at which entrance stands a huge cedar tree that is reportedly more than 1,300 years old.
Magome
The Magome Pass leads into the Kiso Valley, which is considered by many to be the heart of the Nakasendo Trail. Magome itself is easily one of the most beautiful Edo period post towns (alongside Tsumago). With traditional wooden buildings, museums, Eiheiji temple, Japanese cedar (sugi) forests, and views of the central Japanese alps in the distance, it’s the old Japan of your imagination.
Tsumago
O-Tsumago is also considered to be one of the best preserved and most picturesque post towns in all of Japan. It’s a real treat for visitors who want to experience old Japan, and with no telephone poles, electrical lines, or modern conveniences in sight, it really is like stepping back in time. Look out for family-run Ryokan (inns), merchants, and more in this lovely, old-fashioned post town.
Momosuke suspension bridge
Built in 1922 by Momosuke Fukuzawa and pictured above, this beautiful wooden suspension bridge in Nagiso is a sight to behold.
Karasawa-no-taki
This stunning 100-metre-high waterfall is located on the Kaida Plateau on the way up to Mt. Ontake-san, an active volcano and a mountain sacred to Japanese Buddhists. It’s also the highest point along the Nakasendo Trail at 1,422 metres.
Matsumoto Castle
Although a slight deviation from the Nakasendo Trail, this beautiful castle is close enough (and spectacular enough) to justify the extra journey from Nagano or Nagoya. Matsumoto Castle is regarded as one of the most iconic in Japan. Read our guide to Visiting Matsumoto, the Castle in the Japanese Alps, for more.
Karuizawa
For centuries, Karuizawa was another post town along this famous route, but today it is a high-end luxury mountain resort town. It is a popular day trip from Tokyo itself, and one of the last stopping off points before the end of the Nakasendo Trail.
How To Get There
Using your JRailPass, you can travel from Kyoto to the historic section of the Nakasendo Trail in the Kiso Valley. Simply take the Hikari or Kodama shinkansen from Kyoto to Nagoya and then transfer to a Shinano Express to Nakatsugawa. You can then take a short bus journey to Magome and the start of your walking trail.
The Magome to Tsumago Hike
The 8 km trail between Magome and Tsumago is the most popular section of the entire Nakasendo, and for good reason. It's an easy, well-signposted walk (in both Japanese and English) that takes most people 2–3 hours, passing through a gorgeous variety of landscapes — cedar and cypress forests, bamboo groves, terraced rice paddies, small rural villages, shrines, and a couple of waterfalls. Best of all, there's a stretch of original Edo-era stone path, laid in the early 1600s.
Which direction? Most walkers go Magome to Tsumago, because Magome sits higher up — meaning the hike is mostly gentle downhill, with the high point being the Magome-toge pass roughly a third of the way in. (You can walk it the other way too; it's just a bit more uphill.)
Along the way you'll find:
- A traditional teahouse rest stop partway, where volunteers often serve free tea
- Public toilets at intervals
- Bear bells mounted along the trail — ring them as you pass to alert any wildlife to your presence (more on this below)
- A Wi-Fi hotspot near the top of the hill as you leave Magome
The trail is suitable for almost everyone — you'll see small children and grandparents enjoying it — and requires no special equipment beyond comfortable walking shoes.
The Best Time to Walk the Nakasendo Trail
The Nakasendo can be walked year-round, but two seasons stand out as the best:
Autumn (October–November): The Kiso Valley's maples turn brilliant red and gold, and you'll see strings of orange persimmons hung to dry under the eaves of the old houses. The air is crisp and cool, ideal for walking, and the scenery is at its most photogenic.
Spring (April–May): Cherry blossoms and fresh green leaves transform the valley, temperatures are mild and comfortable, and the rice paddies begin to fill. A beautiful and popular time to walk.
The other seasons come with trade-offs:
Summer (June–August): lush and green, but hot and humid, and June is the rainy season (tsuyu), when the trail can be wet and slippery. Bears are also more active in the warmer months
Winter (December–February): atmospheric and quiet, with the possibility of snow giving the post towns a magical feel, but the trail can be icy, temperatures are cold, and some facilities reduce their hours
One important seasonal note: The handy luggage-forwarding service between Magome and Tsumago runs only from mid-March through November. If you're walking in deep winter, you'll need to carry your own bags or use coin lockers.
In short, for the best combination of scenery and comfortable walking conditions, aim for late April–May or mid-October–mid-November, and avoid the June rainy season.
Practical Tips for the Trail
- Use the luggage-forwarding service. Between mid-March and November, you can send your bags from the Magome tourist information centre to the Tsumago centre (or vice versa) for about ¥1,000 per item. Drop off between 8:30–11:30am and collect between 1:00–5:00pm — so you can walk unburdened. A brilliant, underused service
- Ring the bear bells. The Kiso Valley is bear country. Brass bells are mounted at intervals along the trail — ring them as you pass, and consider renting or bringing your own bell. Bear encounters are rare, but the bells are a sensible precaution
- Collect a Nakasendo stamp card. For about ¥300 at the Magome Tourist Information Centre, you can pick up a stamp card and collect stamps along the route — a lovely keepsake
- Walk Magome to Tsumago for the easier, mostly-downhill direction
- Start early to enjoy the post towns before the crowds and to make the return bus comfortably
- Wear comfortable shoes — standard trainers or light hiking shoes are perfectly adequate; no special gear needed
- Bring some cash — the buses and many small shops and teahouses are cash-only
- Consider Pocket WiFi for navigation, though the trail itself is very well signposted in English
Follow in the Footsteps of the Edo Travellers
Walking the Nakasendo is one of Japan's most rewarding experiences — a chance to slow right down, breathe the mountain air, and step into a Japan that has barely changed in centuries. Whether you do the famous Magome to Tsumago walk as a day trip from Nagoya or linger overnight in a centuries-old ryokan, you'll come away with the rare feeling of having truly travelled through history.
Lace up your boots, grab your Japan Rail Pass, time your visit for the blossoms of spring or the fiery leaves of autumn, and set off along one of the world's great historic walking routes. Happy trails!
Frequently Asked Questions
1. How long is the Nakasendo trail walk?
The famous Magome to Tsumago section is about 8 km and takes most people 2–3 hours at a relaxed pace. The full historic Nakasendo was around 534 km with 69 post towns, but very few people walk the entire route — the Kiso Valley post-town section is the highlight and easily done in a day.
2. When is the best time to walk the Nakasendo Trail?
Autumn (October–November) and spring (April–May) are the best times. Autumn brings spectacular foliage and drying persimmons under the eaves, while spring offers cherry blossoms and fresh greenery — both with comfortable walking temperatures. Avoid the June rainy season and note that the luggage-forwarding service runs only from mid-March to November.
3. Is the Magome to Tsumago hike difficult?
No, it's an easy, well-signposted walk suitable for all ages and fitness levels, with only gentle elevation changes (and mostly downhill if you walk Magome to Tsumago). You'll see everyone from small children to grandparents on the trail. Comfortable walking shoes are all you need.
4. How do I get to the Nakasendo trail with a JR Pass?
Take a JR train to Nakatsugawa Station (about 1h15 from Nagoya, covered by the JR Pass), then a local bus to Magome. After the hike, take the bus from Tsumago to Nagiso Station, then JR trains onward to Nagoya or Matsumoto. The buses aren't JR-covered but are inexpensive.
5. Can I do the Nakasendo as a day trip?
Yes, it's a popular day trip from Nagoya. Leave around 8:00 am, hike Magome to Tsumago in the late morning/early afternoon, and catch the return bus (last departures around 15:30 and 16:30). For a deeper experience, stay overnight in a traditional ryokan in Tsumago or Magome.
6. Is there a luggage service so I don't have to carry my bags?
Yes, between mid-March and November, a luggage-forwarding service runs between the Magome and Tsumago tourist information centres for about ¥1,000 per item. Drop off between 8:30–11:30am and pick up between 1:00–5:00pm, leaving you free to walk unencumbered.
7. Are there bears on the Nakasendo trail?
The Kiso Valley is bear country, though encounters are rare. Brass bear bells are mounted along the trail — ring them as you walk to alert wildlife to your presence. It's a sensible, low-effort precaution, and the frequent ringing is all part of the trail's atmosphere.
